Brown Sparrow cardigan FREE PATTERN

Brown Sparrow Cardigan by REN CUMING

This pattern is sized to fit a Medium.
Loose on a UK 10/12, Fitted on a UK 14 and snug on a UK 16.

DK yarn – I used a pure wool yarn as it’s a good long term economical choice!
1 x 50gm ball of your contrast colour (referred to as B).
**If you want to knit both fronts or both sleeves at the same time on one pair of needles you will need 2 balls of the contrast colour!
8 x 50gm balls of the main colour (referred to as A).
I pair of 3.25 and 4mm needles.
Any type of yarn as long as you can achieve the following tension.
17 stitches and 25 rows, over a 10 cm x 10 cm sample knitted in stocking stitch.


Using contrast yarn B and 3.25mm needles cast on 81 sts.
Change to yarn A and work in K1, P1 rib for 6 rows.
Increase 1 stitch at each end of next row. (Increase in this manner on every following 6th row until you have 97 sts.) Continue in rib for another 3 rows ending with RS facing you.
Switch to 4mm needles and using stocking stitch, work 2 rows.
Change to yarn B (do not break yarn A, simply strand loosely at the side) and work 2 rows of St st, ending with RS facing, break yarn B leaving a tail for sewing in later.
Change to yarn A and using stocking stitch work 4 rows.
Strand yarn not in use behind the other stitches, never going more than 3 stitches without carrying it.
Simple fairisle cross pattern (worked over 3 rows):
Row 1 - Using (yarn A knit 4 sts, using yarn B knit 1 st) repeat to end.
Row 2 – Working in purl, work the centre 3 stitches of the cross, placing the centre stitch over the last rows coloured stitch.
Row 3 – Work as for row 1, forming the top of the cross with a single coloured stitch as before.
Work 4 rows in yarn A alone.
Work 2 rows in contrast yarn B.
Working in main colour only continue in stocking stitch increasing as already set until work measures 27cms from cast on edge.

Shape armholes thus…
Cast off 4 stitches at beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch each end of next 7 rows.
Decrease 1 stitch each end of following 5 alternate rows.
Continue with remaining 65 stitches until armhole measures 20cms from beginning of armhole shaping

Shape shoulders…
Cast off 6 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows.
Cast off 6 sts, knit 10 then turn, working on these stitches only. Cast off 4 sts knit to end. Cast off remaining 6 sts.
Rejoining the yarn, cast off centre 21sts, knit to end. Work this side to match other, reversing the shaping directions.

Left front.
Using contrast yarn B and 3.25mm needles cast on 40 stitches.
Change to yarn A work K1, P1 rib as for back, again increasing as before on every 6th row at the outer seam edge only until you have 48 sts.
As set by the back, work the colour band on each front, placing the first cross carefully to match on each side.
Continue until work matches back to underarm shaping.

Shape armhole…
At seam edge, cast off 4 sts.
Work I row.
Cast off 1 stitch at seam edge on next 7 rows.

Start shaping neckline…
At neck edge cast off 6 sts, knit to end, (but continue shaping armhole by decreasing 1 st at seam edge on following 5 alternate rows). Decrease 1 st at front edge on next 5 rows, and then on every following alternate row till just 18sts remain.
Continue without further shaping until front matches the back to shoulder shaping.
Shape front shoulder…
Cast off 6sts at seam edge on next row and following alternate row. Work one row. Cast off remaining 6 sts.

Right front.
Work as for left front, reversing all shaping.
Some people work both fronts on the same needles at the same time to make sure they match… it’s a good idea, but you will need an extra ball of the contrast colour to do this!
Sleeves (make two, again you can make both at once on the same needle).
Using contrast yarn B and 3.25 needles cast on 43 sts.
Change to yarn A and work 1 x 1 rib for 8 rows increasing 1 st at each end of last row. (Continue increasing thus on every following 6th row until 67sts).
Change to 4 mm needles and work 2 rows of stocking stitch.
Change to contrast yarn and work 2 rows… this sets the colour band as used on the back and fronts. Once you have completed the color band continue working in stocking stitch with the main colour until your sleeve is the desired length. Approx 40cms.

Shape underarm…
Cast off 4 sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 st at each end of next 7 rows, and again on following 5 alternate rows. Work 4 rows decreasing at each end of this 4th row, work another 4 rows, again decreasing at each end of the 4th row.
Decrease 1 st each end of next 5 rows.
Cast off 3 sts at beginning of next 4 rows.
Cast off remaining 9 sts.
Block all pieces as necessary ready for assembly.

Using main yarn A and 3.25mm needles, cast on 5 stitches.
Work in K1,P1 rib working your first buttonhole approx 2cms from beginning, make the front band long enough when slightly stretched to fit right front from hem edge to beginning of neck shaping.
Work another band, omitting the buttonholes for left front.
Stitch these bands neatly in place.

With main colour A and a pair of long 3.25mm needles, and right side of work facing you, carefully pick up and knit stitches evenly around neckline. You will feel what is the right amount so have faith in yourself! Just make sure that each front neck has the same number of stitches.
Work in K1,P1 rib for 6 rows.
Cast off neatly in rib.
Sew in your ends, match up the buttons to buttonholes and sew on carefully.

Design notes: This cardigan can be varied so much it’s a dream. Change the colourband to have a different pattern. Leave the colourwork out altogether. Crochet embellishments for the neckline. Add small knitted patch pockets… Its endless!

NOTE: I would love to see your finished project made using this pattern. Please tag completed projects online as #fairysteps or #fairystepsknits

Fancy a pretty little flower border... Mary, Mary, quite contrary, how does your garden grow?

Heres a quick close up to give you an idea of how I worked one.

This pattern has been drafted for personal use only please!
Copyright FAIRYSTEPS 2010

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